Nearby, our boatman and motorised longboat awaited on the Skrang River. We then we wash away the red skins and dry the white peppercorns that remain.' To make white peppercorns, we soak red berries in sacks in the Skrang River for two weeks. 'The peppercorns change from green to yellow then red. 'Green, red, white and black peppercorns all come from the same plant,' explained the owner, who held out a grape-like cluster for us to examine. Sarawak is the fifth largest exporter of peppercorns in the world. We stopped at a pepper plantation, which resembled a vineyard, with vines growing up stakes. Our 235-kilometre drive through Sarawak continued, past Iban padi (rice), pepper and cocoa plantations. Sarawak peppercorn vines climb poles on hillside next to house. 'Leaches?' We shuddered, recalling that our trip included a jungle walk. 'Cigarettes are ideal for detaching leaches that cling to your skin,' he said. We hesitated, considering the health hazards. Joseph suggested cigarettes for the adults. 'It's fermented rice wine.' We also bought gifts for the children - candy and small toys. But what do you buy as a house gift for a headman? Leach remedy The Serian market sold fresh fish, jungle greens and fruits, dried fish, plastic containers, straw hats and brooms. I also grew up in a longhouse, and I speak Iban as well as Bidayuh.'Īccording to Joseph Daniel, visitors traditionally bring gifts to the longhouse headman. The Murat Longhouse, where we're staying, is Iban. They had the reputation of being the most fearsome head-hunters in Borneo. Ibans are the largest ethnic group in Sarawak, Malaysia, comprising 30 per cent of the population. 'We're also called Land Dayaks,' he explained, 'because years ago, the Ibans drove us inland. Joseph is Bidayuh, one of 27 ethnic groups in Sarawak. Tastes like chicken.' We should've seen that one coming. Monitor lizard tied to pole next to basket of fish in Serian marketĪs the butcher tied the monitor lizard's sharp-clawed feet to a pole, for easy transport, he uttered something in Malay to our guide, Joseph Daniel, who translated: 'Good meat.

Sarawak malysia